The Brazen Head's Guinness & Beef Stew

We were visiting my in-laws this week so, with more people to feed than our usual two, I decided immediately to make an Irish stew. There are several versions typically separated into two categories: traditional and Guinness. I actually made Jamie Oliver's pot pie version for St. Patrick's Day and loved the flavor the beer imparts to the dish, so I opted to use it again.

My online research turned up a recent article in the Chicago Tribune that deflated the debate by offering a recipe for each version. Their Guinness stew recipe comes from The Brazen Head, Ireland's oldest pub, established in Dublin more than eight centuries ago in 1198. If that pub, with its incredible longevity, thinks it's good enough to serve to their patrons, then how could I not make it?!

Unless you make this stew, you'll have no idea how phenomenal it really is. Words cannot adequately describe the flavors, the richness, or the savory earthiness you get from the Guinness. It is truly outstanding. So, if your weather has declined, take advantage of the cold snap and brew up a batch. If it's too hot where you are, you could probably use a slow-cooker to keep the heat from your kitchen. But, you definitely don't want to wait till fall or winter for this one. You'll just have to trust me on that.

Here's how I made it:

Oil
2 lbs lean stew beef
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 "Flavor Boost" beef broth packet
Water
2 onions, chopped
1 can (6 oz)  tomato paste
2 Tbsp flour/butter roux paste
2 cups baby carrots, halved
4 celery ribs, chopped
1 pint button mushrooms, quartered
2 tsp dried parsley
1 Tbsp dried thyme
1 pint (15oz can) Guinness Stout (about 1½ cups)

Season the meat with salt and pepper, to taste. Heat the oil over medium-high heat in a Dutch oven or large saucepan and sear the meat, in batches if necessary, till deeply browned. Add the broth and just enough water to cover the meat, scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan, and simmer over low heat (don't let it boil) for about an hour till the meat is tender.

Stir in the roux till it melts. Add the onions, garlic and tomato paste and bring to a boil. Then, mix in the remaining veggies, herbs and Guinness and simmer for another hour or so, till the sauce thickens and the veggies are tender.

The Potato Famine

Dublin Famine Memorial (http://en.wikipedia.org)

Ireland and potatoes -- seemingly, the two go hand in hand. But, their shared history is complicated, to say the least.

Prior to the introduction of farmed vegetables in the 8th century, Irish diets centered around grains, meat (both wild and livestock), seafood, wild fruits and nuts and foraged plants, like mushrooms and roots.

When the Normans and English began colonizing Ireland in the 12th century, the new "landowners" often failed to maintain consistent food supplies for their "tenants." By the mid-16th century, the heirarchical divide between the lords and laborers had widened, and the impoverished farmers were struggling.

Around that time, potatoes were introduced to Europe as a whole and Ireland took to them enthusiastically. The soil there was ideal for growing them, and they could be stored easily during the winter months. Thanks to this new-found dietary staple, Ireland's poulation exploded, growing from about 1 million to roughly 8 million people in less than 300 years. And, most of these people were poor farmers. That made the potato famine that much more brutal.

Ireland overall wasn't affected, and all other crops and livestock were unharmed by the blight, but the heirarchy of haves and have nots had widened with catastrophic consequences. Only the poorest citizens suffered, and badly, since they depended heavily upon the potato.

When the fungus phytophthora infestans -- or potato blight -- struck Ireland in 1845, entire crops of potatoes rotted in the ground and primary food source for millions of people was destroyed. Blight plagued Irish farmlands for the next several years and the repercussions would be felt for decades after that.

Because potatoes were considered a "cash crop" owned by the landlords and not the folks who farmed them, millions of families became destitute when their primary source of income disappeared. They couldn't pay their rent and were evicted or abandoned their homes.

The displaced poor settled together in tenement conditions, leading to the emergence of communicable diseases like cholera, dysentery and typhus. In just one decade, more than a million people died of disease and starvation. (That equates to about 40 million modern-day Americans, by ratio.) Another two million emigrated out of Ireland, if they were fortunate enough to find and afford passage. This continued for decades to come, and Ireland's population was cut nearly in half, to about 4.5 million, by the start of the 20th century.

Although potatoes remain a popular component of Irish cuisine, the invention of food processing and refrigeration led to dietary diversification there, as in other industrialized countries.

Cottage Pie

Growing up, we often dined on a very similar dish called Shepherd's Pie, which Dad usually made with leftovers from the Sunday roast beef or lamb. This version typically uses red meat, as well, but we decided to lighten it up using ground turkey instead.

By doing so, we cut out a bunch of fat and calories, but we definitely didn't lose any flavor. I love the herbs used in this recipe and the chopped tomatoes are a nice touch that adds a fresh bite. Don't cut corners on the mashed potatoes, though; they're an equally important component. I added a dollop of light cream cheese to mine to help make them extra creamy. If I'd thought to grab some chives or scallions, I'd have added them to punctuate their richness, too.

This is a simple, delicious meal that comes together in a snap -- perfect for a busy weeknight meal. Here's how I made mine:

5 large potatoes, boiled
1 Tbsp butter/margarine
2 Tbsp low-fat cream cheese
½ tsp dried thyme
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
1 pat of butter, cut into pieces

Oil

2 lbs ground turkey (light/dark mix)
2 onions, diced
2 plum tomatoes, diced
1 cup water
1 "Flavor Boost" beef broth packet
1 Tbsp flour
1 tsp dried thyme
1 tsp dried parsley
½ tsp dried sage
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

Put the potatoes on to boil till fork tender. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 375. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat and brown the meat just till there's no more pink. Remove the meat and set it aside in an ovenproof casserole dish. Then, saute the onions till golden and carmelized (if you've used turkey or another lighter meat, you may need to add more oil to the pan). Add the tomatoes, water, broth, flour and herbs and seasonings and simmer till heated and the flavors meld. Pour this mixture over the meat and mix well to coat. The mixture will be moist but not liquidy; if you want more gravy, then add more broth, tomato sauce or other liquid.

When the potatoes are cooked, drain and mash them to your preference. (The ingredients I used are noted above.) Spread the prepared potatoes over the top of the meat mixture. Dot the surface with the butter and bake for 30-40 minutes till the potatoes are golden brown.

Week #15: Ireland

Ooh, this week is going to be good! Just the names of traditional Irish recipes makes me want to cook them! Colcannon, boxty and champ; barmbrack and spotted dog; Dublin coddle and Dublin lawyer -- their exotic names make them difficult to decipher (they're dishes that feature potatoes, baked breads, or stews with sausages and lobster, respectively) but I bet they're all delicious.

Despite the enigmatic monikers, modern-day Irish cooking appears to be quite simple, using well-known ingredients and techniques.

Of course, the global perception of Ireland's food will be forever linked to the potato. But, I'll talk more about that later. For now, I'll find some interesting dishes to make that I hope you'll enjoy. Stay tuned

More Interesting Illinois Eats

The Disaster

If you're a culinary explorer like me, then you already know that you can enjoy amazing and plentiful regional specialities in practically every city and town across this great nation. There are TV shows dedicated to premise and many online resources, too. One in particular is Roadfood, the brainchild of Jane and Michael Stern. (I actually met them years ago while living in CT, when Jane was an EMT-in-training with my best friend. In fact, their book pointed me in the direction of Harry Caray's for Chicken Vesuvio.)

So, to wrap up my feasts from the road before I head back to the kitchen, here are a few of the other delicasies we sampled and where you can find them.

Italian Beef: This garlicky, shaved-meat sandwich also is unique to Chicago, so of course there are many places where you can get one. (Roadfood offers several options; Michael is a Chicago native.) Ours came from Dear Franks in Deerfield. They didn't dip the entire sandwich in the jus, which makes it less authentic but much easier to eat, but the flavor of the meat was outstanding nonetheless.

Biscuits and Gravy: You can get this dish almost anywhere in the country, but it's probably most delicious in the midwest. (Maybe they got their recipe from the South...?) The gravy isn't gummy or floury, and the sausage is divine. And, the biscuits? Fluffy and light and so so tasty. We got ours at Courier Cafe, an Urbana institution for more than 30 years.

The Disaster: Trust me, there's nothing tragic about this breakfast! We stopped at Sarkis Cafe in Evanston the morning we left Chicagoland. They offer this incredible, homemade Armenian sausage that's sublime. Top it with cheese and fresh peppers, tomatoes and onions and pile it into a crusty sub roll and you've got yourself a Disaster.

Now that we're a bit more settled, I can cook again! So, stay tuned tomorrow for our next destination.

Cheers, everyone!

Deep-dish Pizza

Nearly 70 years ago in 1943, Pizzeria Uno invented deep-dish pizza and elevated Chicago to new heights in pizza making -- literally! The buttery cracker-style crust can sit as high as 3" on the sides, essentially serving as a bowl to hold all the delectable sauce, cheese and toppings.

Ever since I met my wife, she's raved about Papa Del's, a pizzeria near the Urbana-Champaign campus of University of Illinois. Although she's gotten accustomed to folding her New York-style thinner-crust pizza, she frequently yearns for the gooey, knife-and-fork pies from Papa Del's. So, when we visited our friends there this past week, we just had to go!

Folks, this is hands down THE BEST pizza I've ever tasted -- no exaggeration. There's something about Papa Del's sauce that could be highly addictive... The crust is insanely good, the cheese is plentiful but not too greasy or heavy on the palate (or the belly -- a nice surprise for someone like me, who's got an uncomfortable relationship with lactose) and the spices are just right. Certainly, there's oregano and garlic in there, but I think there's something... else...?

But, perhaps the best thing about Papa Del's pizza is that you don't have to travel to Illinois to taste it. THEY SHIP! You can savor the Chicago-style taste sensation that is deep-dish pizza in the comfort of your own home. Got a party coming up? Maybe you should have a pizza challenge, and see if your favorite thin-crust pizza can conquer a Chicago-style deep-dish. Regardless of which pie wins, you'll have a fantastic time finding the winner.

Chicken Vesuvio

This classic Italian-American dish is unique to Chicago's kitchens and restaurants.

No one is too sure where this recipe came from, but it was possibly created and made famous by Vesuvio Restaurant, a downtown venue that operated in the 1930s.

It's traditionally made with skin-on, bone-in chicken, garlic, oregano, olive oil and white wine,which is oven roasted till the skin is crispy and the meat is fall-off-the-bone tender and served with potato wedges and peas.

At the suggestion of my "Roadfood" book by Jane and Michael Stern, and because I LOVED him, we stopped by Harry Caray's Italian Steakhouse for lunch so that I could enjoy and share their version of this dish, which Michael (a native Chicagoan) claims "sets a gold standard."

Even though it's the only version I've tried, he must be right, because this was one of the best restaurant meals I've had in ages. Caray's offers both bone-in and boneless options (I chose the latter), and you can even order just the potatoes as a side dish if you prefer.

Thankfully, there are LOTS of recipes available online, so I'll certainly make this dish at home. But, if you're heading to Chicago sometime soon, definitely seek it out at one of the city's many fabulous restaurants.

Red-Hots

Wrigley's Chicago Dog- Vienna Beef, of course

This is no ordinary hot dog. Eating a Chicago-style red-hot is an experience folks like us from the Northeast just don't get every day.

First off, the dog itself. You want to make sure you've got one of Chicago's own Vienna Beef hot dogs, with its snappy casing and garlicky flavor.

Then, you've gotta get the works. That means onions, bright green sweet pickle relish, slices of fresh Roma tomatoes, garlic dill pickle spears, sport peppers, yellow mustard and a dusting of celery salt. Ketchup? No way. Leave that for your fries, if you must.

Finally, the bun. It must be a freshly steamed poppy-seed bun, preferably one from S. Rosen's, the local bakery that has set the standard.

Where did I get mine? Wrigley Field, of course! It was my first-ever visit, but I knew the Friendly Confines wouldn't let me down. Although they didn't offer pickle spears, they had everything else. And, it tasted amazing! Sweet, hot, garlicky, salty, it had practically every taste sensation packed into each incredible bite.

Know what made it taste even better? Our beloved Cubs got a walk-off win. Go, Cubs, go!

Week #14: Illinois, USA

View of the Chicago skyline taken yesterday on I90/I94

Since we're road trippin' it, it'll be too hard to cook, so we've decided to focus on Illinois, our home state for the coming week!

The only official state foods I can find for Illinois are popcorn and Gold Rush apples. That's not terribly interesting, nor easy to convert into dinners, so we'll take our inspiration from our first destination. This week will be all about meals that Chicago's made famous.

Red hots with the works, deep dish pizza...boy, tough assignment, right?! We'll seek out these icons and more, so stay tuned for lots of mouth-watering deliciousness from the Windy City!

Meat Pies

In my opinion, the British influence on Australian cuisine is perhaps most evident in their mutual love of meat pies. The recipe I found online makes either one large pie or four smaller ones, so I opted for the hand-held versions. We're heading out for our road trip tomorrow, and I bet the leftovers will be amazing served cold.

As tonight's dinner, they were fantastic! Puff pastry is just so decadent, and the filling is luscious. They're somewhat heartier than American "pot pies," since they don't include vegetables. If you want, you could easily add some chopped veggies into the meat mixture. I love the herbs and spices this recipe uses, especially that dash of nutmeg. I used extra-lean (93%) ground beef to lighten it up a little, as well as unsalted beef broth to control the sodium.

Here's how I made them:

1¼ lb extra-lean ground beef

1 onion, diced

¾ cup low-sodium beef broth

¼ cup ketchup

2 tsp Worcestershire sauce

1 tsp dried oregano

½ tsp ground nutmeg

Salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

¼ cup water

3 Tbsp flour

2 sheets (1 pkg) puff pastry

Preheat the oven to 450°. 

In a large skillet, so there's room for any liquid to evaporate, brown the meat and onion. Then, add the broth, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, oregano, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Cover and simmer for about 15 minutes.

Mix the flour and water till smooth and add it to the meat mixture. Let cool.

Meanwhile, grease your pie pan(s) and line the bottoms with pastry, letting it overhang the edges a little (you may need to roll out the dough to make it fit your pan(s)). Add the cooled filling, brush the pastry edges with milk or a beaten egg, and top with the remaining pastry. Crimp the edges and brush the tops with more milk/egg.

Bake for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 375° and continue baking for another 10-15 minutes or till the crust is deep golden brown.