The Brazen Head's Guinness & Beef Stew

We were visiting my in-laws this week so, with more people to feed than our usual two, I decided immediately to make an Irish stew. There are several versions typically separated into two categories: traditional and Guinness. I actually made Jamie Oliver's pot pie version for St. Patrick's Day and loved the flavor the beer imparts to the dish, so I opted to use it again.

My online research turned up a recent article in the Chicago Tribune that deflated the debate by offering a recipe for each version. Their Guinness stew recipe comes from The Brazen Head, Ireland's oldest pub, established in Dublin more than eight centuries ago in 1198. If that pub, with its incredible longevity, thinks it's good enough to serve to their patrons, then how could I not make it?!

Unless you make this stew, you'll have no idea how phenomenal it really is. Words cannot adequately describe the flavors, the richness, or the savory earthiness you get from the Guinness. It is truly outstanding. So, if your weather has declined, take advantage of the cold snap and brew up a batch. If it's too hot where you are, you could probably use a slow-cooker to keep the heat from your kitchen. But, you definitely don't want to wait till fall or winter for this one. You'll just have to trust me on that.

Here's how I made it:

Oil
2 lbs lean stew beef
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 "Flavor Boost" beef broth packet
Water
2 onions, chopped
1 can (6 oz)  tomato paste
2 Tbsp flour/butter roux paste
2 cups baby carrots, halved
4 celery ribs, chopped
1 pint button mushrooms, quartered
2 tsp dried parsley
1 Tbsp dried thyme
1 pint (15oz can) Guinness Stout (about 1½ cups)

Season the meat with salt and pepper, to taste. Heat the oil over medium-high heat in a Dutch oven or large saucepan and sear the meat, in batches if necessary, till deeply browned. Add the broth and just enough water to cover the meat, scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan, and simmer over low heat (don't let it boil) for about an hour till the meat is tender.

Stir in the roux till it melts. Add the onions, garlic and tomato paste and bring to a boil. Then, mix in the remaining veggies, herbs and Guinness and simmer for another hour or so, till the sauce thickens and the veggies are tender.

The Potato Famine

Dublin Famine Memorial (http://en.wikipedia.org)

Ireland and potatoes -- seemingly, the two go hand in hand. But, their shared history is complicated, to say the least.

Prior to the introduction of farmed vegetables in the 8th century, Irish diets centered around grains, meat (both wild and livestock), seafood, wild fruits and nuts and foraged plants, like mushrooms and roots.

When the Normans and English began colonizing Ireland in the 12th century, the new "landowners" often failed to maintain consistent food supplies for their "tenants." By the mid-16th century, the heirarchical divide between the lords and laborers had widened, and the impoverished farmers were struggling.

Around that time, potatoes were introduced to Europe as a whole and Ireland took to them enthusiastically. The soil there was ideal for growing them, and they could be stored easily during the winter months. Thanks to this new-found dietary staple, Ireland's poulation exploded, growing from about 1 million to roughly 8 million people in less than 300 years. And, most of these people were poor farmers. That made the potato famine that much more brutal.

Ireland overall wasn't affected, and all other crops and livestock were unharmed by the blight, but the heirarchy of haves and have nots had widened with catastrophic consequences. Only the poorest citizens suffered, and badly, since they depended heavily upon the potato.

When the fungus phytophthora infestans -- or potato blight -- struck Ireland in 1845, entire crops of potatoes rotted in the ground and primary food source for millions of people was destroyed. Blight plagued Irish farmlands for the next several years and the repercussions would be felt for decades after that.

Because potatoes were considered a "cash crop" owned by the landlords and not the folks who farmed them, millions of families became destitute when their primary source of income disappeared. They couldn't pay their rent and were evicted or abandoned their homes.

The displaced poor settled together in tenement conditions, leading to the emergence of communicable diseases like cholera, dysentery and typhus. In just one decade, more than a million people died of disease and starvation. (That equates to about 40 million modern-day Americans, by ratio.) Another two million emigrated out of Ireland, if they were fortunate enough to find and afford passage. This continued for decades to come, and Ireland's population was cut nearly in half, to about 4.5 million, by the start of the 20th century.

Although potatoes remain a popular component of Irish cuisine, the invention of food processing and refrigeration led to dietary diversification there, as in other industrialized countries.

Cottage Pie

Growing up, we often dined on a very similar dish called Shepherd's Pie, which Dad usually made with leftovers from the Sunday roast beef or lamb. This version typically uses red meat, as well, but we decided to lighten it up using ground turkey instead.

By doing so, we cut out a bunch of fat and calories, but we definitely didn't lose any flavor. I love the herbs used in this recipe and the chopped tomatoes are a nice touch that adds a fresh bite. Don't cut corners on the mashed potatoes, though; they're an equally important component. I added a dollop of light cream cheese to mine to help make them extra creamy. If I'd thought to grab some chives or scallions, I'd have added them to punctuate their richness, too.

This is a simple, delicious meal that comes together in a snap -- perfect for a busy weeknight meal. Here's how I made mine:

5 large potatoes, boiled
1 Tbsp butter/margarine
2 Tbsp low-fat cream cheese
½ tsp dried thyme
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
1 pat of butter, cut into pieces

Oil

2 lbs ground turkey (light/dark mix)
2 onions, diced
2 plum tomatoes, diced
1 cup water
1 "Flavor Boost" beef broth packet
1 Tbsp flour
1 tsp dried thyme
1 tsp dried parsley
½ tsp dried sage
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

Put the potatoes on to boil till fork tender. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 375. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat and brown the meat just till there's no more pink. Remove the meat and set it aside in an ovenproof casserole dish. Then, saute the onions till golden and carmelized (if you've used turkey or another lighter meat, you may need to add more oil to the pan). Add the tomatoes, water, broth, flour and herbs and seasonings and simmer till heated and the flavors meld. Pour this mixture over the meat and mix well to coat. The mixture will be moist but not liquidy; if you want more gravy, then add more broth, tomato sauce or other liquid.

When the potatoes are cooked, drain and mash them to your preference. (The ingredients I used are noted above.) Spread the prepared potatoes over the top of the meat mixture. Dot the surface with the butter and bake for 30-40 minutes till the potatoes are golden brown.

Week #15: Ireland

Ooh, this week is going to be good! Just the names of traditional Irish recipes makes me want to cook them! Colcannon, boxty and champ; barmbrack and spotted dog; Dublin coddle and Dublin lawyer -- their exotic names make them difficult to decipher (they're dishes that feature potatoes, baked breads, or stews with sausages and lobster, respectively) but I bet they're all delicious.

Despite the enigmatic monikers, modern-day Irish cooking appears to be quite simple, using well-known ingredients and techniques.

Of course, the global perception of Ireland's food will be forever linked to the potato. But, I'll talk more about that later. For now, I'll find some interesting dishes to make that I hope you'll enjoy. Stay tuned