Waterzooi

When I saw the name of this dish I wanted to make it before I even knew what's in it. Then, when I saw that it's a decadently creamy stew with veggies and either chicken or fish, I decided I must make it. Even more exciting, this recipe was featured in a New York Times article from 1987 that's gotten a fair bit of attention (at least in the blogosphere) since then.

The iconic Julia Child selected waterloo for her recipe in the article titled "Celebrity Cook: The Most Interesting Recipe I've Clipped." Although Julia recommends eliminating the cream and eggs as a lighter alternative, in keeping with the low-fat fare that has emerged since she discovered this dish in pre-World War II Brussels, I've opted to (sort of *) leave them in for a more "authentic" taste experience.

For me, the leeks make this dish. I just love them and their flavor melds wonderfully with the tangy vermouth. If you prefer, a dry white wine would work just as well. Tarragon, too, is a lovely choice for seasoning, given how perfectly it pairs with chicken. As for the meat, try if you can to use organic chicken and broth. Once you've tasted it, you'll really appreciate the difference. Since we only needed a light shop this week, we splurged the few extra dollars for it and it's definitely money well spent.

If you want an easy, delicious alternative to your usual chicken soup, stew or casserole, consider trying waterzooi. I think you'll really enjoy it. Here's how I made Julia's version:

¾ pound baby carrots
2 medium onions
3 celery stalks
2-3 leeks
1 tsp dried tarragon
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
2½ lbs bone-in chicken, skinned (I used 5 drumsticks and 2 breasts)
1 bottle (375 ml) dry vermouth
1 qt chicken broth
½ cup fat-free half-and-half (* or heavy cream, like Julia)
1½ tsp cornstarch
6 egg yolks

Julienne the carrots, onion, celery and leeks into matchsticks. You should have about 5 cups when done. Toss them in a large bowl with the tarragon, salt and pepper.

Layer the veggies and meat in a casserole or Dutch oven, starting with one-third of the veg, half the meat, half the leftover veg, the rest of the meat, and the rest of the veg. Add the vermouth first, then enough broth to just barely cover the meat. Cover and slowly bring to simmer over medium heat. Continue to simmer for 25-30 minutes, till the meat is cooked.

When done, strain out the cooking liquid into a large saucepan. Taste and adjust the seasonings as needed.  Whisk the egg yolks in a separate bowl, then add the cream and cornstarch and mix well. Dribble the egg mixture into the cooking liquid and stir gently till slightly thickened and silky. Be very careful the heat isn't too high, or the eggs will scramble! Pour this mixture back over the chicken and veggies and then, as Julia said best, "Bon appétit!"


(Cook's Notes: Depending on the size and shape of your cooking vessel, you might not need an entire quart of broth; in fact, Julia only needed about half that amount. Because I used more, the flavors were diluted, so I added more tarragon, salt and pepper to the cooking liquid at the end, as well as a little extra cornstarch - about 1 tsp of each. Even so, this dish has a delicate taste. Oh, I definitely recommend a nice crusty bread or even some rice to mop up all that sauce.)